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The Pagan Years

1988 – 1992


During this period Vivienne’s heros changed from punks and ragamuffins to ‘Tatler’ girls wearing clothes that parodied the upper class. A chance encounter inspired one of her most important and influential collections, the Harris Tweed collection of Autumn/Winter 1987.“My whole idea for this collection was stolen from a little girl I saw on the tube one day. She couldn’t have been more than 14. She had a little plaited bun, a Harris Tweed jacket and a bag with a pair of ballet shoes in it. She looked so cool and composed standing there.”

Collections: Harris Tweed, AW 1987 – 88 – Tailored and childish look inspired by Royal Family continued. – Inspiration: British fabrics, especially wool which had provided all the uniforms of the British Empire. Black velvet. – 18th century corset. – Fine twin sets now fashion. Pagan I, SS 1988 Time Machine, AW 1988-89 Civilizade, SS 1989 Voyage to Cythera, AW 1989-90 – Inspiration: Watteau, Commedia dell’ Arte and Ballets Russes. – Tights worn without skirts. Inspiration: man who forgot his trousers. Pagan V, SS1990 Portrait, AW 1990-91 – Inspiration: Oil painting – the bravura of texture and display of material wealth – Wish to have the luxury of the whole range of fabric from linen underwear to fur (fake). – Furniture represented designed by Boulle in the Wallace Collection. – Chose a painting by Boucher, ‘Shepherd watching a Sleeping Shepherdess’, to represent the paintings themselves – photographic print. – High platform shoes put the woman on a pedestal like she had stepped out of a painting. Cut and Slash, SS 1991 – Slashed fabric – satin, cotton, denim. – Inspiration: 16th century mania for cutting and pricking fabric which lasted for 200 years, apparently inspired by a battle. Dressing Up, AW 1992-93 Salon, SS 1992 Always on Camera, AW 1992-93