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ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

2016 – Present

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The Vivienne Westwood New York and Paris flagship boutiques open their doors in 2016. 

The Ginza Six flagship boutique opens in Japan in April 2017, with the same concept as Paris.

In 2018, the Vivienne Westwood collaboration with Burberry launches, in joint support of UK-based non-profit Cool Earth, who raise money to help protect the endangered rainforests, combat global warming, protect ecosystems and provide employment for local people.

A flagship boutique on Patterson Street in Hong Kong opens in November 2018.

The Asics X Vivienne Westwood three-year collaboration launches in April 2019. 

The Vivienne Westwood X Vans Anglomania capsule collection launches in September 2019.

The Vivienne Westwood X Buffalo collaboration launches in May 2019.

The Vivienne Westwood X Eastpak ‘SAVE OUR OCEANS’ collection of bags and accessories launches in July 2020.

Vivienne Westwood partners with environmental not-for-profit Canopy for 2020 World Earth Day in their campaign to protect forests through fabric choices.

CÎROC X Andreas Kronthaler produced by INKD collaboration launches for Spring-Summer 2020. 

Both the Vivienne Westwood Shanghai and Beijing Flagship boutiques open in December 2021.

The last physical Vivienne Westwood mainline show took place at Autumn-Winter 2019 London Fashion Week. From then on it was decided to go digital, for environmental reasons.

 

Paris Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2016 marked a new and exciting chapter for the house. Vivienne’s long-term husband Andreas Kronthaler debuted his first official collection there, under the name Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood, replacing Gold Label forevermore. Vivienne Westwood mainline continues to produce bi-annual collections, shown separately. 

“I have designed with Vivienne for more than 25 years. To add my name is to emphasise and clarify the differences between our lines. It is not a big change to the way we work but it will bring a new direction and I am happy and excited for the future.” – Andreas Kronthaler

“Over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception.” – Vivienne Westwood 

“We chose to separate our lines in order to clarify and reduce them. Gold Label became Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, while Vivienne designs Vivienne Westwood Mainline, which includes Unisex – a way to reduce buying.” – Andreas Kronthaler

 

Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Collections:

Sexercise, Autumn-Winter 2016/17 – First collection under a new name. – Pale blue, faded green, and apricot. – Inspired by Buddhism. – Bruegel’s Peasant Wedding (1568). – Floral embroidery. – Austrian costume. – ‘You can’t have enough of spirituality in this world’ (Andreas). 

Europa, Spring-Summer 2017 – Andreas interprets Vivienne’s activism. – Eurocentric. – The rainbow warrior. – The sail of the Greenpeace ship. – Inspired by the 1950 Italian neorealist film Stromboli. – Matisse’s signature blue. – Raffia dresses. – invitation featured Francois Boucher’s ‘The Rape of Europa’ (1747). 

A&V, Autumn-Winter 2017/18 – Gustav Klimt’s 1907 painting Danaë. – Vienna Modernism. – Wiener Werkstätten. – ‘I was acknowledging my nationality and giving shape to my identity; the landscapes, the people, their costumes’ (Andreas). – The title and new logo nod to the V&A. – Handrawn penises and breasts. – Reinterpreting the Clint Eastwood jacket. 

Andreas, Spring-Summer 2018 – Embracing heritage. – Dresses named after cows from Tyrol. – Hand-painted graphics. – The dirndl. – Vibrant colours. – ‘Lust, desire, sex and even sadness are best expressed through colours,’ (Andreas). – Scribbled hearts. 

Vivienne, Autumn-Winter 2018/19 – A love letter. – ‘After examining myself, I felt like looking at you’ (Andreas). – Five chapters for five decades of work. – Harris Tweed. – Matted mohair. – SEX rubber. – Teddy Boy tailoring. – Exaggerated silhouettes. –   White dresses made of deadstock. 

Ok…It’s Showtime, Spring-Summer 2019 – Gary Card’s set design construction mid-show. – Inspired by: ‘Skate girls of Kabul’. – Austrian Walter Pilcher’s ‘TV Helmet’ influenced the upside down chair hat. – Wallpaper florals. – Corseted gowns. – Peplum skirt with tea-service tray. – Looking at the process of getting dressed. 

7, Autumn-Winter 2019/20 – ‘Fashion is about eventually being naked’ (Andreas). – Second-skin latex. – Cut-outs. – Exposed corsets. – Recycled fabrics from his personal archive. – Ethical Fashion Initiative accessories. – House slippers made of off-cuts. – ‘Transfiguration’. 

Rock Me Amadeus, Spring-Summer 2020 – ‘Everythings connected, things that have no connection suddenly connect’ (Andreas). – Illustration of Samartran tiger in support of Fauna & Flora conservation organisation. – White lace parasol-cum-headpiece, like a cloud. – Inspired by 1950s pin-ups. – Botticelli’s Venus. – Inflated 1700s hips.- Ethical Fashion Initiative, handmade fabrics from Mali. 

9, Autumn-Winter 2020/21 – Pagan Garlands. – Dagger-wielding. – Referencing Boudicca Queen of the British Iceni tribe. – Garlic necklaces for protection. – A ‘poetic protest’. – Number nine symbolises ‘Universal love, spiritual law, spiritual awakening and service to mankind.’ – Importance of elegance. – ‘Knockout’ flared skirt. – Wasp-waisted ‘Jacques’ jacket. – Recycled buttons.

Down to No.10, Spring-Summer 2021 – Lockdown collection. – 8th-century classic Chinese poems. – Eccentricity. – Return of Lord Nelson’s flag print. – 30-piece collection. – Quality vs Quantity. – Featuring the ‘Westwood Family’. – Tanka of Li Ho, yr. 700, “Dawn at Shih- Ch’eng”. 

Mayfair Lady, Autumn-Winter 2021/22 – Inspired by: the songs of My Fair Lady. – Davies Street shop. – Clothes R transformative. – Hand-knit tit-warmer. – Colonial style. – Satin sandal clompers. – “I could have spread my wings + done a thousand things, I’ve never done before. I’ll never know… my heart took flight. / I could have danced, danced, danced all night”. – The English gent.

Spring-Summer 2022 – Torn Georgette. – Transparency. – A new beginning. – Thinking of Marilyn (Monroe). – Rubber. – “Theatre is a search for an expression that is directly concerned with the quality of living and, in that search, one can find great purpose.” Peter Brook (theatre director). – 17th Century. – Black towelling. – Leftover fabric. 

La Nouvelle Eve, Autumn-Winter 2022/23 – An elegant tribute to the world of theatre. – Finding the “muse in me” (Andreas). – Lightness. – Noble and formal. – Absence of censorship. – Inspired by:  ‘The Golden Coach’ film by Jean Renoir. – Old Christmas decorations. – Holy icons. – Clothes as a mirror to your inner being. – Prints of the moon.

 

Vivienne Westwood Collections:

Ecotricity, Autumn-Winter 2017/18 – first show on the London menswear schedule.- Both men and women. – Tulle dresses. – Patchwork knitwear. – Bold red, beige and navy.- Hand-drawn badges and crowns. – Finger puppets made of old Christmas wrapping paper. – Knitted jumpers as mini-skirts. – Cut-off trousers. – “She and he are having fun with Unisex and swapping clothes” (Vivienne). – Growing scared of Climate Change.

We Are Motherfucker, Spring-Summer 2018 – Acrobats and gymnasts.- Playing card symbol prints. – Tights stuffed with rubbish. – Plastic bottle shoes. – Hand-painted 100 million print, inspired by inflation. –  Bruegel print. – Tailoring made from hemp. – Sequin details.- Half dressed. – Cave print of hunter-gatherers. 

Don’t Get Killed, Autumn-Winter 2018/19 – “Clubs mean war” (Vivienne). – Sow the whirlwind, reap the whirlwind. – Attention on the Princess coat. – Undyed wool, straight from the sheep’s back. – Camouflage green. Mountbatten pink. – Body-conscious clothes. – Folk stripes. – “The most sexy dress, should it be worn on the oldest person in the world on top of a net t-shirt (Vivienne). 

Buy Up Dress Less, Spring-Summer 2019 – Starting point: the five Taoist elements: Fire, Earth, Metal, Water and Wood.- Watercolour paintings of Chinese dragons and peonies. – “Dame Vivienne” and “Green Economy” calligraphies. – Wood pulp from plantations regulated by reforestation programs. – Hemp bamboo blend. – “We are fighting right now to save the world; and punks love a fight” (Vivienne). – The sexiest vest in the world. – No jeggings! – Hand-painted kilts and loincloths. 

Homo Loquax, Autumn-Winter 2019/20 – Inspired by: a Thomas Wolfe lecture in 2006. – Fashion is all about styling” (Vivienne). – Teddy fabric. – “Stop climate change! Tell kids the truth” (Vivienne). – Paper crowns. – Re-purposed fabrics. – Holographic shoes. – Pinocchio. 

 

Vivienne Westwood Digital Collections:

No Man’s Land, Spring-Summer 2020 – “An opportunity to show our best clothes, the future is quality not quantity. Less is more sustainable” (Vivienne). – One World Rent.POLITICIANS R DICKHEADS. – Deadstock fabrics.

True Punk, Autumn-Winter 2020/21 – London Fashion Week as a platform to defend human rights. – Prince of Wales check. – Julian Assange exhibition. – Flame print. – Harris Tweed in purple and brown.

Vivienne Westwood, Spring-Summer 2021 – Traditional English tailoring. – Chrissie Hynde prints. – Farms Not Factories. – Clothes as street theatre. – “Giant pin-stripes, giant spots or spots so tiny they look like a dust of colour” (Vivienne). – Pearls for men. Inspired by: Artist, Anthony Newton. – True Punk facemasks. – “Our aim is to show only one collection a year” (Vivienne). 

Vivienne Westwood, Autumn-Winter 2021/22 – Main artwork: Daphnis and Chloe (François Boucher, 1743). – 92% sustainable. – Drunken tailoring. – Soft pastel skies. – Pastoral green. – Recycled denim. – Knitted corset tops. – King of Wales check. 

SAVE OUR SOULS, Spring-Summer 2022 – Inspired by: the sea and the Spring-Summer 1998 ‘Tied To The Mast’ collection. – Introducing regenerative NATIVA wool. – Looking at Redfern, the English Couturier. – English pirates. – Imagining Queen Elizabeth and the Europe from which she came. – “I demand government cooperation, Save Our Souls, SOS” (Vivienne).

Wild Beauty, Autumn-Winter 2022/23 – Quality not quantity. – The Year of the Tiger, symbolises strength, courage and exorcising evil. Print of hand-painted eyes looking at Matisse paintings of beautiful women. – Panther cutting technique. – The evil eye. – Looking at Peter Bruegel’s ‘The Fight Between Carnival and Lent‘ (1559) painting. – Animal prints, spots and stripes. – Animal toes return on shoes. 

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